DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY NEWS FROM ePHOTOzine

 

Take a walk around your town or local park and you'll soon find a statue or monument. They don't move, or complain so are a perfect subject for a photographer and most are so well sculptured that you have the opportunity to shoot several varied photographs of them.

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1. Gear Suggestions

Unless you're a particular fan of the carvings that decorate the tops of churches you'll only need a standard zoom lens which means this is a project you can do with your DSLR or compact camera. If you want a little bit more stability take a tripod along but you can quite happily work hand-held.

 

2 The Statue's Position

When you come across a statue the first thing you should do is take a walk around it to look at the angle. As most statues have a dominating position raised up on plinths, shots of statues can often end up looking a little distorted due to the low angle you shoot from. To combat this just stand further back and use a longer focal length to fill the frame. To improve your shot further, if there are steps or a wall nearby stand on them to give you more height or if you don't mind the trial and error approach you could always put your camera up above your head and take your photo - you may get some surprisingly good results.

 

 

3. Think About Backgrounds

As well as looking for the right angle to photograph the statue pay attention to the background as this can change the overall look of the image. A messy background's distracting while a bright sky can affect the meter reading and leave you with a silhouetted statue. Metering from a darker part of the scene can wash the sky out completely so try using exposure compensation if you find metering to be a problem. If you've found an angle you just have to photograph but the background's spoiling the shot, use a wider aperture to throw the background out of focus.

 

4. Working In Shade

If your statue's in a shaded area, such as under trees, make sure your flash is off as this will blast light into the scene and all the shadows which emphasis the statue's shape will be lost. You may need to use a slightly longer shutter speed so make sure you hold your camera steady or pop it on a tripod to prevent camera shake.

 

5. Other Locations

When you've walked the length of your town searching for statues there are plenty of sculpture parks across the UK that give you the opportunity to capture several interesting pieces of art in one location.

 

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Fast aperture prime lenses have always been in fashion, sought after by photographers keen to enjoy the photo opportunities they bring. They are exciting optics, but they come with baggage. Depending on the format, they are often big and hefty and then there’s the price which can be considerable. Comparing like-for-like focal lengths, a lens that is just a fraction of an f/stop faster can mean a big enough price difference to make the hardened photographer weep. 

Are fast primes worth the cash? Well, that’s only a question you can answer but if you like the idea of shallow depth-of-field, shooting in poor light and using low ISOs, then a fast lens or two in the kit bag is a compelling option. Of course, the other thing with primes is that they demand a more disciplined photographic approach and that’s a good thing too. 

So, if a fast prime is on your wish list it makes sense to check out used gear specialist MPB first. With great service, competitive prices and expert-checked stock, MPB will help you make the most of your budget, and the camera kit is covered by a warranty too.

In this shopping trip, we have assumed a £3000 spend with the aim of equipping ourselves with a three fast prime lens outfit together with a high resolution, full-frame camera.

As for which brand, it was a choice between Nikon, Panasonic and Sony, with Canon sidelined being limited to its own AF lenses. Panasonic full-frame cameras use the L-Mount, which is well supported. The Nikon Z mount is gaining ground among independent lens makers, but we plumped for Sony. Its E-mount currently has the broadest choice of its own and third-party optics.

For the body, the Sony Alpha A7RIV appealed. Its AF might not be quite up to the level of its newer brothers but it’s still very capable and it has 61 megapixels under its bonnet to enjoy. High resolution is a big attraction, but this classy camera also has 10fps continuous shooting with AF tracking, weather-sealing, impressive video capability and plenty of customisation potential.

Typically Sony, the top plate controls are nicely placed and there’s plenty of customisation potential with camera set-up.

 

A quick search on MPB’s website showed A7RIV body options from £1239, which was in good condition but with a shutter count of over 150,000. Committing a further £200 of our budget to the body gave the option of an A7RIV in excellent condition and a shutter count of just over 14,000. It’s a good choice for £1439.

Onto lenses, choosing which three focal lengths to go for was a challenge because obviously, much depends on what you like to photograph. After a little internal deliberation, the idea of a wide-angle, a standard and a short telephoto seemed a great outfit capable of dealing with a wide breadth of subject matter.

 

Wide-angle lenses mean you can include plenty of environment to give pictures context. Image credit: Will Cheung.

 

For the wide, the 24mm focal length had the greatest all-round appeal, with the 20mm perhaps too wide for general shooting and the 28mm not quite wide enough. Anyway, at the time of our stock search, MPB didn’t have any stock of the 20mm or 28mm lenses from Sigma, but in this situation what you can do is create a stock alert - it can be cancelled at any time - by supplying an email address and as soon as the relevant item comes into stock, you’ll receive notification. 

 

The 24mm focal length means foreground can be exploited in landscape pictures. To blur the water in this scene, the exposure used was 2 secs at f/11 and ISO 100. Image credit: Will Cheung.

 

MPB had a couple of Sigma 24mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art lenses in excellent condition at £354. It’s not quite as good as the current 24mm f/1.4 DG DN Art, but it’s not far behind and the attractive price meant we had more budget to complete our outfit. 

Sigma Art lenses have a great reputation, and we stayed with Sigma for the 50mm lens. MPB had two 50mm f/1.4 DG DN Art in stock, both in ‘Like new’ condition at £674 and £699. We went for the cheaper option which took our spend so far to £2467, which leaves £533 for a short 85mm telephoto, a focal length that would suit portraits, street and scenes.

 

A fast 50mm lens is just the ticket for available light portraits and means high quality shots are possible without having to push ISO too far. This portrait was exposed at ISO 1600. Image credit: Will Cheung.

 

Having £533 to spend on a high spec short telephoto doesn’t give much room for manoeuvre. More recent 85mm lenses f/1.4 from Samyang and Viltrox were not in stock from MPB at the time, while f/1.4 alternatives from Sigma and Sony bust the budget. One 85mm f/1.4 option was the Sirui Aurora with a single sample priced at £394.

Zooms dominate the lens market but there’s a very healthy interest in primes, especially high spec models with fast apertures.

 

Another route was to go for an 85mm f/1.8 which brought quite a few options into play. The difference between f/1.8 and f/1.4 is a little over half-a-stop so significant but not huge. In practice, having to use a marginally higher ISO would have minimal negative impact on the Sony A7RIV, especially with the possibility of noise reduction in editing. Pictorially, an f/1.8 lens used wide open will still give a nicely blurred background and be very slightly less critical when it comes to focus.

 

The 85mm focal length is extremely versatile and having a fast maximum aperture is a big advantage too. This was shot at f/3.5 and the background is still nicely blurred. Image credit: Will Cheung.

 

MPB had an excellent condition Zeiss Batis 85mm f/1.8 at £514. Taking the route of a Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 at £289 for an excellent condition model would save money, and that could be used for protection filters for the three lenses. In the end, though, the thought of having a Zeiss lens in the bag makes the option more compelling.

So, with MPB’s help, we have a solid, general purpose three prime lens outfit comprising a 24mm f/1.4, 50mm f/1.4 and 85mm f/1.8 together with a recent Sony 61 megapixel full-frame camera. That sounds good and a fabulous way to kick off 2026.

 

  News from MPB

Keep right up to date with the latest camera techniques and buying advice with MPB. Two In the Field shooting guides were recently posted, using Canon EF lenses for Astrophotography and the Nikon Z8 for Landscape Photography. For hardware buying tips, check out MPB’s Selects guides. A recent story was Top Camera Gear for Wildlife Photography.

Click here to take you to the Photo and video kit guides web page.

  MPB Explained

You need kit to take photographs and produce videos, and taking the used route is a cost-effective way of making the most of your budget and keeping up with the latest developments in imaging technology.

MPB is one of the biggest used retailers with bases in the UK, Germany and the USA.

Trading with MPB the process is fair, safe, painless and incredibly easy.

Whether you have kit to sell, want to make a purchase or part exchange, start by going to the MPB website which is intuitive and straightforward to use.

If you have kit to trade, just start typing the name in and a list of suggestions from MPB’s huge database will appear. If a name on that list matches your product click on it and add its condition; if not, continue typing in the whole name and condition.

It’s worth bearing in mind that MPB’s database covers much more than cameras and lenses so if you have, for example, a photo backpack, tripod or filters to sell these can be shown as you type in their name too.

With all your kit listed, add contact details and a quote will appear in your inbox soon afterwards, although manually entered items will take one working day.

If you are happy with the quote, accept it and follow the instructions to get the kit ready for courier collection on a day to suit you. For higher-value deals, an MPB account manager will also be in touch, so you have a personal point of contact if you have any queries.

Once received by MPB, you will get a notification and after checking by its product specialists you will receive a final quote. This can vary from the original quote if there is a missing item —like a battery not being supplied—or your assessed condition differs from the actual condition.

A quote can go down, but it can also increase if the kit’s condition is better than your assessment.

The whole process doesn’t take long and MPB are in touch by e-mail at every step so you’re never in the dark, and only when you are totally happy with the deal, pass on your payment details or pay the balance in the case of part-exchange. Either way, the money or your new kit will be with you soon after.

Get A Quote From MPB Today

 

About MPB

• MPB is the largest global platform to buy, sell and trade used photo and video kit.
• MPB is the simple, safe and circular way to trade, upgrade and get paid.
• MPB is not a marketplace, instead buying directly from visual storytellers and evaluating all items before reselling MPB-approved kit.
• MPB's dynamic pricing engine provides the right price upfront for all items.
• Circularity is at the centre of MPB, promoting sustainability, diversity and inclusion in everything they do.
• MPB prioritises inclusive recruitment and supports employees with extensive training and development. They promote inclusive visual storytelling and an inclusive circular economy.
• MPB's business model is 100% circular. All packaging is 100% plastic-free. Their cloud-based platform uses 100% renewable electricity.
• MPB recirculates more than 570,000 products annually
• MPB provides first-class customer service. Customers can receive support through their Help Centre or by speaking directly with a kit expert.
• MPB's product specialists are trusted by thousands of visual storytellers in the UK.
• MPB is rated ‘Excellent’ on Trustpilot with over 37,000 reviews.

Visit The MPB Website

When you're new to photography and are not quite ready to venture into the manual world, the basic shooting modes available on your camera's dial can help you get a better photo, in certain situations. These are pre-programmed modes which can be used to shoot a particular subject or scene.

Almost all digital cameras these days will have at least macro, sport, landscape, night, movie and portrait modes. Plus, there are a few modes/features that are individual to each camera.

These scene modes are usually easy to find on your camera. They will either be found on the wheel which sits on the top of your camera or they will be clearly marked on the camera's menu system.

Your camera's manual will give you more details on specific modes but to get you started, here's a quick rundown of what popular modes are available and when you'd use them:

 

Portrait Mode

Portrait mode's obviously for portraits and it tells your camera you're photographing a subject where you want the background to be blurred so all attention falls on them. By selecting this mode, the camera picks a larger aperture (smaller f-number) to throw the background out of focus.

 

 

Sports Mode (Action)

This tells the camera to use a quicker shutter speed so you can freeze the action/movement in front of you. It's designed to be used with moving subjects so try it out when you're by the football pitch or capturing cars at the go-kart track. Having a camera with fast AF, such as those available in the NX series, will also increase your chances of capturing a sharp action shot.

 

 

Beach/Snow Mode

Beach scene shooting mode is as the name suggests a mode to use when shooting pictures on a beach. Sand reflects a lot of light and fools cameras into underexposing so the shot comes out dark. When sand is recorded dark it looks muddy and not the lovely golden yellow depending on the time of day and weather conditions. The Beach scene mode increases the exposure slightly to compensate but also adjusts the white balance to make the sand look more natural. This mode is sometimes combined with a Snow scene mode which causes similar exposure problems for a camera. It's great for quick snaps on the beach when you're out on day trips or on holiday with your family.

 

 

Landscape Mode

This tells the camera you want front-to-back sharpness so it will select a smaller aperture (larger f-number) to give you this. This mode sometimes boosts the greens in an image as you'll tend to be shooting scenes that have more of this shade in it with this mode. Be careful if it's a little dull though as the camera may use a slower shutter speed due to the smaller aperture size which can result in shake if you're not using a tripod.

 

 

Macro Mode (Close Up)

When shooting insects, flowers, coins and other small objects, this is the mode you want. Different cameras will have a different macro focusing distance but all of them do let your camera know you'll be shooting something that's small and fairly close to your lens, with a narrow depth of field. A tripod will be a big help when working in this mode as the tiniest of movements can cause your shot to go out of focus.

 

 

Movie Mode

This mode lets you shoot short videos with sound. Some cameras also capture HD movies. 
 

Other Modes that feature on some cameras include:

• Panoramic – Create wide-screen shots by simply choosing the Panorama Mode while moving the camera in the direction you want. 
• Kids/Pets Mode – This is similar to Action/Sport Mode as it is designed to help you capture fast-moving objects by quickening the shutter speed.
• Fireworks Mode – Obviously, it's for photographing fireworks but it can also be used for light painting too.
• Sunset – to help you capture the colours of a sunset in all its glory
• Dawn – for those photographers who get up early to shoot their landscapes
• Text - photograph text in documents clearly and easily with this mode.

 

1. Know What You'll Be Using It For

Before you make your purchase, make sure you think about where and what you'll be using your tripod for. For example, you don't want to set out walking through the countryside to find the tripod you've purchased is heavy or impractical.
 

2. What Type Of Tripod?

A full-sized tripod extends to eye level, offer rigid support and tend to stay standing when used on windy days. Some models can be a little bulky and heavy but some companies have tripods which are made out of aluminium alloy making them light and easy to transport.

A compact tripod is similar to the full-size version except it but collapses to a very small size making it easier to carry around. There are also mini pods and tabletop tripods available. For times when a tripod would get in the way, such as when shooting in a crowd, the next best thing that gives you the same height but without the bulky splayed legs is a monopod.
 

3. Check The Height Of The Legs

If you're buying the tripod from a shop on the high street, make sure you extend the legs fully so you can check to see if they go to the height you need. Obviously, you can't do this online but most sites have a section where more details such as height, weight etc. of the product you're interested in can be found.
 

 

 

4. Have A Look At The Head

Most tripods do come with a head but tripod manufacturers do stock heads which you can buy separately. Most tripod heads will shoot in a vertical format as well as horizontal. If you're going to be shooting panoramas, move the head so you can see how freely/smoothly it'll pan. If you're buying online just have a read of the tripod's features for more information on how well the model pans and moves.
 

5. How Quick Is The Quick Release System?

Many tripods now feature a quick release system which uses a plate that can be permanently fastened to your camera to lock it in position on your tripod. Check how easy it is to fasten and remove your camera to the tripod as you don't want to be fighting with your equipment when out in the field.

 

6. Legs And Locks

Make sure the legs are fully out before you put your camera on the tripod and always extend the thickest part of the legs first before moving on to adjust the smaller parts as this will give you a more rigid support. Before extending the height of the centre column do check the legs are at their maximum height because even though it's quick and easy to adjust the centre column, it's not a good habit to get into and you'll have a much more sturdy base to work with if you adjust the legs first.

As well as securing your tripod, locks should be quick to adjust and easy to use. Locks are either levers or twist grips. Twist grip locks are very secure while the lever lock option is faster to use but do make sure they are locked tight before taking your shot as you don't want the tripod to slip mid-exposure.

 

 

7. The Feet

Most tripods have rubber feet which absorb shock and offer good grip on most terrain. Some models feature spiked feet which are useful in situations where you need to sink your tripod into the ground such as at the beach or on a windy, wet hillside.

 

8. Clean Your Tripod

You want to make sure your gear is always ready to go and in a good condition so keep it clean and free of rust. This is even more important when you've spent the day at the coast as saltwater will corrode tripod legs and feet so always rinse them off in fresh water once home.

   

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition  

 

If you recently got your hands on a new camera (many probably did for Christmas), you may be wondering what you should do next. Here, we’ve come up with a few first steps that will help any photography novice on the way to stunning shots.
 

Step 1 - Read The Manual

Yes, we know it’s boring, and it takes a while to find the right language sometimes, but your manual will have invaluable information about your particular camera, straight from the manufacturer. Read what the manufacturer has to say, and then build on your knowledge as you go along.
 

Step 2 - Familiarise Yourself With The Camera

Turn the camera on, and familiarise yourself with what dial does what. Have a run through the menus on your camera so you have an idea of where to head when you’re out and about for the first time, saving you time if a shot presents itself.

 

Step 3 - Experiment

When you know your way around the camera, the next step is to have a go with it. This may sound obvious, but if you don’t have a quick play and see what images you can produce with various settings, you won’t know what to look for when you head out to get some professional-style shots. Have a go at shooting using every aspect of the camera, to gain knowledge – you never know when an opportunity may present itself that requires the use of a mode that you know how to use through having a play.

Step 4 - Get Online

When you know how to use the camera and are looking for inspiration and like-minded people to share your shots with, this is where ePHOTOzine comes in! We have a wealth of knowledge and ideas on the site to help you achieve those stunning shots you’ve always wanted. Search the site for anything photography related using the magnifying glass in the toolbar – you’ll more than likely find it!

Now's also the perfect time to join +. What is +? Well, if you love photography, and want to get the very best out of the site, then Plus is the ideal product for you. You can find more information about the membership here.
 

Step 5 - Find Your Niche

Once you’ve gotten to know your camera, have been out, taken some shots and read up on your areas of interest, you may find that you like, or are better at certain areas of photography. Build on these, and they will become your area of expertise. By discovering what you like and what you are good at, you can hone your skills and become the very best in an area of photography that you love.

 

At this time of year, across the UK, snow can start appearing in our landscape. But, it's not the easiest of subjects to photograph, so we have answered some of the most frequently asked questions to help you out when snow's filling your landscape shots. 

1. Why does the snow look blue/grey in my shot?

This is because your camera's metering system is fooled by the highly reflective tones of the white snow, which makes the image appear darker than it should be. Blue snow in pictures occurs where the snow is receiving no direct sunlight but is simply being lit by the sun reflecting off the blue sky (hence the cast). 

All cameras have built-in metering systems that are designed to deliver a perfect picture assuming the contrast range is normal. They do this by scrambling the tones and then adjust so the scrambled colour brightness is mid-grey or average. This is fine when the subject has a wide tonal range with everything from black to white being present, but when the subject is predominantly white, such as snow, the camera underexposes so that the white becomes grey.

If you are using a compact camera it most likely has a snow scene mode and by switching to this, your once grey snow should appear white. For those using more advanced cameras, you can get around this by adjusting the exposure compensation setting to either plus 1 or two stops depending on the amount of snow in the picture. If your camera has the exposure lock feature, which is usually set by half-pressing the shutter button, point it at a mid-tone in your scene, lock the exposure then recompose your shot.

To fix a blue cast in-camera you'll need to switch your white balance settings to either shade or custom if you want to create a custom white balance from the snow. If working in sunny conditions the snow shouldn't appear blue but your shadows may but if you try and correct the image in-camera to remove the cast from the shadows you'll alter the colour of the snow so generally, it's best to leave the blue in the shadows so your snow is crisp and white. Plus, there's always the option to adjust the image in your image editing software once home. 

 

 

2. Why does my snow shot look boring? 

When snow covers most of your shot it can make the scene look a little bland, especially with a snow-filled sky as there won't be that much definition between the sky and the ground. Try stopping down a little to add more depth to your shot, or if this doesn't work, try adjusting your position to include a stone wall perhaps, or a lone tree, to add a little more to the shot. To darken light skies so your shots are a little more moody fit a graduated filter to the front of your lens. 

 

3. Falling snow is ruining my shot. How can I minimise the appearance of the flakes? 

The simple answer to this is to wait until it stops snowing. If this is not an option, make sure you're not using your flash, as this can cause the light to reflect off snowflakes nearer to the lens, causing the rest of your shot to look really dull and grey. A better way to capture snow falling is to put your camera on a tripod and use slower shutter speeds. 

 

4. Why has my lens steamed up?

This is because you've moved from a warm house to the freezing cold outside, resulting in condensation. To avoid this, let your camera acclimatise in its case or bag for a while. Don't be tempted to wipe the lens with a cloth as this will cause smudges and marks which will spoil your image. 

   

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition  

 

The UK’s most exciting photography Convention is back — bigger, bolder and packed with more inspiration, education and industry powerhouses than ever before.

 

The 2026 London Photo Convention & Trade Show brings thousands of photographers together under one roof for four days of hands-on learning, live demos, exclusive deals, and world-class speakers. If you’re serious about your photography — this is where you need to be.

London Photo Trade Show: 15–17 January — Meet the Biggest Brands in Photography

Get ready for three electric days on the Trade Show floor, with leading camera and lighting brands showcasing their latest kit. Expect:

• Hands-on access to the newest cameras & lenses
• Live demonstrations from top pros
• Expert advice from manufacturers
• Show-only offers and exclusive discounts
• Retailers showcasing must-have accessories

Whether you shoot weddings, portraits, landscapes, content for social, or you’re just passionate about photography – the Trade Show has something for you.

Entry: £10 on the day (free if you pre registered before Tuesday)

Get Your Tickets Now!

 

 

Over 200 Hours of Training with Masterclasses & Superclasses

If you're hungry to learn, the Convention’s education programme is unmatched.

Masterclasses

Dive into a huge lineup of practical, inspiring and business-boosting sessions covering:

• Portraits
• Weddings
• Lighting
• Wildlife
• Macro
• Post-production
• Creative storytelling
• Branding
• Business growth for photographers

Top photographers, award-winning educators and industry leaders share the techniques and insights that elevate your photography fast.

Superclasses

Want hands-on training with the best in the business?

The Superclasses deliver small-group, practical workshops with some of the most respected names in the industry. Limited spaces — these sell out fast every single year.

 

 

Exclusive Offer

Save 10% with code epz10 on all class tickets!

  The Photography Event You Simply Can’t Afford to Miss

If you want to improve your skills, grow your business, network with other creatives and immerse yourself in the world of photography — this is your event.

 

Save the Dates

Full Convention: 14–17 January 2026

Photo Trade Show: 15–17 January 2026

Venue: Novotel London West, Hammersmith, W6 8DR

 

Join thousands of photographers for the ultimate start to 2026.

Masterclass Passes and Superclasses available now.

Book your tickets now!

 

A New Year has begun and with it comes new opportunities to better your photography. So, with a whole year ahead of you, what will you be doing differently this year? Do you want to try a new genre of photography, do you want to shoot with your smartphone? Or, quite simply, do you just want to enjoy the hobby of photography more? Whatever your plans, we've got a few New Year's Resolutions for photographers to get you thinking about your year of photography that's to come.

1. I Will Know My Gear Well

If you've got a new camera for Christmas or have fallen into the trap of switching to Auto as it's just easy to use, make this year the year you get to grips with your camera. Take the time to learn why shutter speeds are important, how apertures can change the look of your photo and why setting your white balance manually can improve your shots. Of course there are more modes, techniques and settings than listed here and you can find plenty of advice on various aspects of photography over in ePHOTOzine's techniques section. Don't overlook sitting down and reading your camera's manual too as they are usually full of good advice.
 

2. I Will Try Something New

Learn how to use a new piece of editing software or how about trying a different photography technique? There's plenty of subjects out there and you won't know if you enjoy photographing them if you don't try. If you're looking for tips, head over to ePHOTOzine's techniques section, ask your question in our forums or take a look at some of the photography books that are on offer.
 

3. I Will Take My Camera With Me More Often

Many of us are guilty of leaving the camera at home a little too often when really if we had it in the car or even in our bag, we'd take more photos. In fact, with a large amount of smartphones on the market, why not make more use of the camera that's on your phone and most likely with you all of the time? Yes, there is a chance many won't be great but you can use the shots to learn from and improve the shots you take at a later date.
 

I Will Make The Most Of The Gear I Have

Just because you don't own an expensive DSLR and a long lens doesn't mean you can't take good photos. You just have to think more about what the gear you have is capable of capturing and focus your energy into taking good shots of that with it. Plus, if you do want to photograph a particular subject but don't think you have the right gear, there are often ways to get around it. For example, for wildlife photography, you'll need longer lenses, a tripod etc. when taking your shots out in the wild which means it's not an ideal subject for compact users. However, you can capture wildlife shots at a zoo or wildlife park where you can get closer to the wildlife, making it easier for you to capture frame-filling shots.

What photographic themed resolutions have you made? Share them in the comments below.